SSPNY Heads Over to Tacombi at Fonda Nolita for a Beachy Vibe and Excellent Tacos to Match in this Elizabeth Street Garage!

There's never a bad time to eat the first-rate tacos and sip some cinnamony horchata (or knock back a few cervezas) at the great Fonda Nolita, but I think I like coming here during the winter most of all, when the whole Yucatan beach vibe really makes you want to settle in and relax. You've got your twinkly outdoor lights strung from the ceiling, the faux-weathered hand-painted signage, the rickety tables and chairs, the non-cliche beach-party mix over the speakers (it's loud, but not TOO loud), and, of course, there's Fonda Nolita's signature "taco truck" smack in the middle of things, a fantastic vintage VW bus from which your Mexican goodies emerge.

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita (that's its full, official name) has been making the locals happy for more than two years now--the take-out counter does a justifiably brisk business--but the food and atmosphere here make it something of a destination taco joint as well. As a can't-miss date idea, for a quick snack during your area gallery-hopping or boutique-shopping rounds, for a raucous night out with the crew, Fonda Nolita works on a lot of different levels. And every time I've popped in for a taco or five over the past couple of years--and that's been a LOT of times--I've always walked away feeling happy and satisfied.

It had been a few months since my last taco binge when I ate at Fonda last week and, if anything, their food is better than ever. There are usually a dozen or so different taco options on the Fonda Nolita menu, all of which range from solid to crave-worthy, but on this night I went with the Al Pastor de Puerco, which offers a terrific balance among sweet chewy meat, spicy sauce, and sharp hits of pineapple; the vegetarian Acelgas, a supremely hearty concoction featuring kale, nopal cactus, and big chunks of cauliflower; and, my personal all-time fave here, the generously-portioned Crispy Fish which, again, shows off the kitchen's skill with balance and depth of flavors. And because the night was especially cold, I tacked on a terrific spicy pork quesadilla--La Gringa, it's called--for a hefty shot of warm cheese. Even in a neighborhood not exactly hurting for good Latino food (Cafe Habana, Pinche Taqueria, La Esquina, are all within a few blocks, to name just three other options), Fonda Nolita remains a standout casual restaurant.

Tacombi at Fonda Nolita is located on Elizabeth Street just south of Houston, and is open on Sunday through Wednesday from 11:00 a.m. to 12:00 midnight, and on Thursday through Saturday from 11:00 to 1:00 a.m. More info and a complete Fonda Nolita menu, here.